SUSPECT SUBSTANCES GLOSSARY (work in progress) The Soil Association uses the precautionary principle to determine whether an ingredient is acceptable in its organic health and beauty standards. In other words, "if in doubt, do without" - if any research casts doubt over the ingredient's safety to humans or the environment, it is not permitted. The substances mentioned below are some of the more common ones that are neither allowed in products certified by the Soil Association nor used by Essential Care. While the European Union has been restricting use of potential allergens recently, all of these substances are still permitted and very commonly used: Artificial colour or fragrance "parfum" (if not qualified as an essential oil) "19% of children with eczema are fragrance sensitive" (8) Many other studies link rising levels of dermatitis in recent years with an increased use of fragrance chemicals N.B. "phthalates" (pronounced THAL-aytes) are allergens found in certain fragrance chemicals and nail varnishes; many are now restricted in use by the EU. Dimethicone (or any other silicone products) Hydrogenated oils Highly processed and refined, hydrogenated fats offer no value to the skin, and in the diet have been linked to heart disease due to hardening of the arteries. Lanolin A bi-product of sheep wool that, due to pesticide residue, has been linked to skin-sensitivity. Methyldibromo glutaronitrile "No safe level for methyldibromo glutaronitrile (MDBGN) in cosmetic products has been established… it is recommended that it should not be present in any cosmetic product"(2) The EU has reduced the permitted level of this preservative in recent years to 0.1% in wash-off products, but it is still commonly used. Nanoparticles Not enough evidence is currently available to support their use. Concerns exist due to potential disruption to body chemistry. Paraben preservatives (butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben) Other than being suspected as a skin-irritant the paraben family of preservatives was recently linked to breast cancer: "The findings of parabens in tumour samples are in line with the general hypothesis that there may be a link between oestrogenic compounds currently used in underarm cosmetics and breast cancer"(1) Peanut oil Petroleum oils such as petrolatum and mineral oil and liquid paraffin They may come out of the earth originally as crude oil, but dead petrochemicals offer little benefit to skin and health. They create a surface film on the skin and block the pores, holding moisture in, but preventing the skin from secreting its toxins. Not only do they stop the skin breathing and absorbing oil soluble vitamins, which are so vital for skin health and repair, (a real problem in the case of eczema and dermatitis sufferers), they actually accelerate the ageing process by encouraging free-radical generation. Tests performed on 100 children at Sheffield Children's hospital concluded that: "56% of the episodes of exposure to aqueous cream [petroleum-based cream] were associated with an immediate cutaneous reaction… Cutaneous reactions to aqueous creams in children with atopic eczema are so common, that it should only be used as a soap substitute and not as a leave-on emollient"(6) The manufacturing process of petrochemicals is extremely polluting to our environment. Petroleum derivatives include: Propylene glycol and butylene glycol which have been linked to skin sensitivity. Sodium lauryl(eth) sulphate (or other sulphate detergents) "Sodium lauryl sulphate is used around the world in clinical studies as a skin irritant" (4). Other akyl sulphate detergents are reputedly less damaging to the skin, but the Soil Association does not allow them on environmental grounds. Solvent extracted substances Including solvent-extracted essential oils which may contain toxic solvent residue Alkyloamides; identified on skin-care product labels as: Diethanolamine (DEA) Monoethanolamine (MEA) Triethanolamine (TEA), and sometimes preceded by 'cocamide' Primarily used as a foam-booster in shampoos, but can also be used as thickening or binding agents, triethanolamine is used as a pH balancer. Some evidence suggests that they can be skin irritants. In addition, alkyloamides contain a free amine that can combine with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in cosmetics, and there is concern that they may form nitrosamines (carcinogens) Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea These are the most commonly used preservatives after the parabens. "a hazardous substance with respect to skin sensitisation by skin contact" (3) References (1)Journal of Applied Toxicology, vol. 24, 2004 p.1-4, (2) EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Products, 15/3/05; (3) Australian Government Final Report on Hazard Classification of Skin Sensitisers, January 2005; (4) Journal of the American School of Toxicology, Vol. 2, No. 7, 1983; (5) Danish Environmental Agency Project 615, 2001; Sources: (6) The Pharmaceutical Journal, vol. 271, 2003; (8) Contact Dermatitis, vol. 48, p.59, 2003 |